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It wasn’t until the next morning that it really dawned on me where I was. I opened the curtains in my room and a sleeping lizard fell to the floor before scuttling away, terrified. Breakfast – gingery pepper tea with toast, pineapple and watermelon – was served and the big, big sky was finally open. When I took a quick detour to the city before heading to the festival, I was greeted by knowing grins and chants of “Nyege Nyege” from anybody who cared to pay attention to my conspicuous complexion. The festival’s flock of visitors were notorious, and not just because of the widely-touted “open sex”.

The labyrinthine festival grounds were guarded by metal detectors, and police and military security in ill-fitting uniforms carrying obsolete, retrofitted firearms. There were a number of discreet stages that twisted confusingly around the banks of the Nile: a gigantic main stage for the biggest African acts and some high profile collaborations; the Dark Star stage for underground electronic sounds; the Eternal Disco, an intimate area that overlooked the water; the tiny Ndiku stage, for more low-key sets; and the Spirit of UG stage, an un-amplified area where local traditional musicians performed in the daylight hours. There was also a stage provided by local cellphone company (and festival sponsor) MTN that was among the busiest all week, offering almost non-stop African club music that had audiences dancing continuously.

As I made myself more familiar with the festival grounds, I began to explore the small sub-areas dotted around the stages, which offered spaces to sit and relax, chat to new friends, collaborate, learn or trade. Sitting down, I noticed that I wasn’t alone. During daytime, large spiders sat almost motionless on huge webs anchored to the trees that surrounded the site. Most of these eight-legged friends weren’t dangerous, but they were elegant, with huge female Nephila spiders (two thirds bigger than their tiddly male counterparts) taking pride of place, catching the bright sunlight on their irresistable iridescent markings.

With lots of sponsors, a big part of the festival looked like a trade fair with poorly dressed people. PHOTOS BY ANDREW KAGGWA

“This ugly thing called Nyege Nyege is not taking place this year. We have already evaluated how much losses will come. We shall save the image of this country but not allow this to take place for the two days and one night,” Lokodo said.

He later allowed the festival to take place following a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) signed between the organisers, Big Talent Africa and Uganda Police.